Benjamin Moore Advance Paint Satin – Update: I have since shared my current thoughts on painting furniture with Benjamin Moore Advance. Please read this post as a follow up to this post here. ****
Hello, friends! A few months ago I decided to try a new paint, Advance by Benjamin Moore. I currently use General Finishes paint and coats, but since I started painting furniture with an HVLP spray gun in early 2015, it has proven that when applied over the same coats, the achievement is very difficult. What I came to the conclusion is that the air coming from the gun causes the top coat that was sprayed on to dry quickly. When combined with a top coat there won’t be enough “wet eye” for a smooth, even finish, which will cause it to spread over longer surfaces (eg the top and some sides of the paper). I’ve tried soaking thick and thin layers of top coat to solve this problem, but I haven’t found anything that works to prevent it. Finally, I will smooth the finish with steel wool and then apply a final coat of poly/top coat with a brush or a fine brush. *As a side note, this problem is more noticeable when using high gloss finishes like gloss coats or satin tops.*
Benjamin Moore Advance Paint Satin
This made me look for something else. I was looking for a paint that came in different colors that didn’t require a top coat (and wasn’t sticky). Enter Benjamin Moore Advance. BM Advance is a water-based alkyd paint that works like regular oil-based paint in a water-based formula that cleans up easily with soap and water. I’ve read about people brushing and washing this paint and getting great results on very small things (brush cuts, car decals, etc.) I’ve used this paint 3 times now (Oh, I’m painting the third part with this paint) . ) and only the high gloss finish. I’m also hoping to try a satin finish or semi gloss, I just need to put some pieces together and get ready for paint. You can see the modern logos and graphics I painted on the front.
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Here are my thoughts on this paint, the good things about it, and the things I don’t care for. I mean, no paint is perfect. Different paints do different things and have different functions. It all depends on the look you’re going for and what you need the paint to do for you (like staying on high roads or just covering antiques).
I want to start by talking a little bit about the weather. I find this paint to be about the same price as other paints I use (like General Finishes). BM Advance Waterborne Alkyd Paint will run you about $25 a quart plus tax and $50 a gallon plus tax. It is clear that the gallon is more expensive and it makes sense for me to buy common colors that I will use often (like white) in bulk. For colors I’m trying for the first time, or colors that are very light and not used often, I only buy a quarter.
One thing to note about this paint is the drying time and recoating time. It is long, and people are afraid of it. If you need to finish a project quickly, it may not be the right paint for the job. The paint takes about 4 to 6 hours to dry and 16 hours before re-watering. Heat and humidity can play a role in these times and can increase drying and recovery times. To be safe I wait at least 24 hours between coats and sometimes 2-3 days if I can. I also use my heater (you don’t want to use a heater to blow the air because it will blow some junk out of the air in your paint sprayer) and turn on about 10 minutes after watering. do My test box holds the heat well and I will move it to a different part of the test house every 30 minutes. Just make sure the heat isn’t too high and don’t put it too close to the piece.
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The best thing about the extended open time for Advance is that the paint has more time to correct to reduce the brush, flash or mark. I sometimes had problems with the orange skin peeling off when sewing this paint. Longer drying times allow more time for dust, mold and other debris to disperse. A clean, undisturbed place for a few hours is good. A completely controlled environment is not possible for me, but I do my best to clean my bathroom, I put down a wet towel to catch it. more food and other particles in the air. buy with a little trouble with the plastic sheet and try not to go back in until the paint dries.
Another thing I struggled with was applying the paint a little too thick on the profile pieces and sticking them in, then letting them dry. This is due to the long drying time, but this paint is known for a lot of peeling and bleeding. Now that it was done (and I had never used a nail when sewing any paint before using Advance) I changed the way I painted pantry doors and drawers to the mark. Just be aware that when you paint paper in and out, the signs can be deceiving. If you get stains from this paint, you should let the area dry for a few days (if at all) then use high quality sandpaper (400 or finer) and smooth it out. Once you’ve done that, go up to 000 steel wool. In my experience it is almost impossible to completely repair a wet area without removing all the paint from that area. I only had one rain shower while painting this area.
You have to slide the edge between the coats. I paint it with a high gloss, and it is shiny. If you don’t sand the surface with high-quality sand paper or synthetic steel wool between coats, you won’t get good adhesion and the paint can splash. not another party to use. Even when working with other paints, it’s a good idea to smooth the finish between coats to ensure durability and smoothness. I usually don’t do this between each coat with other paints, but it is necessary with Advance.
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I’ve actually found that even the highest grade sandpaper, like 400 grit, will leave scratches in the paint (which you’ll see if you use a high gloss) so I keep it all down with #000 synthetic steel wool. to use The photo above shows part of a piece where I used iron wool to make the finish look nicer and smoother. In my experience it can be difficult and painful to remove all parts of real wood and chipboard buildings. Also, if you miss any part, there is a chance that it will rust and spread into the newly painted finish. None of the hardware stores in my 30 mile radius carry synthetic steel wool (that I’ve found), so I order it from Amazon. Norton #000 2 pack is my favorite but I buy and use Task ‘Fine’ grit. Do not buy the 3M brand. I tried but nothing happened, don’t waste your money. The best thing about cleaning the area between the coats and the steel wool is that there isn’t much, if any, paint. When I used the sandpaper and sanding block, it created a mess and the paint came off the edges of the doors and drawers and I was back to square one, which the synthetic steel wool couldn’t! I only use sandpaper and paint when I get wet. All small areas are removed and polished with synthetic steel wool.
One thing I like is that the Advance comes in a variety of colors/finishes. As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, I’ve only used high gloss so far, but the paint is also available in satin and semi-gloss. High Gloss Advance has an excellent gloss for non-oily paints. It has a nice shine when I wash it… And I don’t have to use an oil based product which means messy cleaning and lots of fumes. It is a great alternative to oil-based products. Although this paint works like an oil-based paint, it has a low VOC.
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