Mid Century Modern Walnut End Tables

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Mid Century Modern Walnut End Tables – Building article: https:///mid-century-modern-walnut-end-table-building-woodworking/ In this project video, I build a pair of modern side tables using Purebond walnut veneer. I used a technique called “cutting” to be able to bend the corners of the side table frame to the smooth radius seen in the final piece.

In this project video, I build a pair of mid-century modern side tables using walnut veneered Purebond plywood and a walnut veneer. I used a technique called “cutting” to be able to bend the corners of the side table frame to the smooth radius seen in the final piece.

Mid Century Modern Walnut End Tables

Mid Century Modern Walnut End Tables

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I built this project with two 2ft x 4ft Purebond walnut veneer project panels. The first step was to cut the 17″ wide panels in my case on the table saw.

After cutting to width, I need to adjust the height of the blade for the cutting process, this is the method I used to bend the plywood. Kerfing consists of several cuts, almost across the piece. I cut everything but the last layer of plywood. Removing this material makes the plywood form a radius. The exact radius depends on how the slices are spaced.

In my case, I wanted a fairly defined radius, so after a lot of trial and error, I came up with a distance that worked for me. My table saw blade has a ⅛” cut and I moved the fence over ¼” between each cut. This gave me ⅛” cuts with ⅛” strips between each cut.

Since these side tables are rectangular, I mirrored my cuts and just had to move every other fence cut. I started the cuts with the fence at 6″, did one pass, rotated the panel 180 degrees, did another pass and then changed the fence from ¼” to 6 ¼”. I continued twice more, moving the fence up to 6 ¾, then again lowering the fence to 5¾” and the four steps to 5″. This process meant that all my cuts on this first pass were 6 inches on center.

Mid Century Modern Walnut Coffee Table

I then moved the fence to 15″ and repeated the process, lowering the fence ¼” at a time, to 15¾” and then to 14″. You can see the ends of the panels start to flex as I make more passes. I continued cutting until I had all my cuts.

I wanted my side tables to be about 2 feet tall and use 16″ hook legs as the bases. This meant that the side table frame had to be about 8 inches tall, which was taller than I could get with the 4 foot project panel. I need to add a strip to the bottom of the shell to compensate for the extra length.

I cut the strip 6 inches wide on the table saw and 17 inches long on the miter saw, then cut dominoes to attach the strip to the body. This can be done with tacos, crackers, or even holes in the bottom of the corpse because no one will see them.

Mid Century Modern Walnut End Tables

Then it was time for collage, which was very interesting. First, I added glue to each of the cuts, making sure to concentrate the glue in the center to prevent it from spreading around the edges. I then slowly began to bend the plywood, which was very stiff at this point. I applied some warm water to the corners of the screws to bend the wood without cracking. I held each half in place temporarily with some clips.

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I then added the strip with Dominos with my Festool Domino XL and glued it in place. I secured the bottom section with some parallel bar clamps and then used a few more clamps to make sure everything was aligned properly. Finally, I checked the square and wiped off the remaining glue.

While the case was drying, I started working on the front bezel. I ground some walnuts with a grater and ink and then cut them into strips on the table saw. I needed the bezel to be extra wide to compensate for the corner radius.

I then cut the front molding with a miter saw and attached them with tape clips.

After the shell and face frame were dry, I glued them on. I just bought some of these face frame clips and they make it so much easier. A lot of clips are needed to bridge the gap between the case and the front bezel.

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After the glue dried, I attached the front bezel to the housing using a piece of Whiteside Ultimate I purchased at Woodpeckers. This exercise was a turning point for me. You can see how this drill leaves a beautiful surface, it’s unbelievable.

I then milled a few more nuts for the drawer fronts using a plane and jointer. I cut the fronts of the drawers so that we had a ⅛ inch opening on all sides, then traced the corner radius on the drawer fronts. All these corners are slightly different, so this process requires a lot of adjustments.

I sanded down to my line with the oscillating sander and continued to check the fit until it was where I wanted it.

Mid Century Modern Walnut End Tables

Before gluing the back to the case I sanded the whole piece down well, make sure to sand the inside well while I still have access to it.

Mcm Two Drawer Walnut End Table

I used plywood for the back. I cut it to size and glued and nailed it to the back. After the glue dried, I placed it on the router table and also added a heavy bevel. If you shave the edge so that the bevel touches the side of the piece, the back panel essentially disappears.

Finally, I added a ⅛-inch radius nose to the outer and inner edges of the front bezel as well as the drawer front.

Then it was time to work on the drawers. I actually had enough walnut plywood to make the drawers, so I went with that. While I cut the sides of the drawers, let’s talk about Purebond plywood, one of the sponsors of today’s project. I love using their plywood, which is formaldehyde free, made in the USA, and of the highest quality. It is available exclusively at Home Depot, click here for more information.

With the sides of the drawers cut to size, I cut the bottoms of the drawers from ¼” plywood and it was time to assemble.

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First, I put some glue on the bottom of the drawer and temporarily installed the sides of the drawer with glue and nails. I then attached the bottom of the drawer to the sides with clips, making sure everything was square before attaching. I then reinforced all the corners with 1 ¼ inch screws and then reinforced the bottom with the same screws. The process is very quick and simple and results in a very durable drawer.

Then the turn ended. Off camera I sanded some more, turned all the parts 180 and then dusted them off. To finish I used Waterlux, one of the sponsors of today’s video. As you can see here, Waterlux is one of my favorite finishes for walnut because it really brings out the grain.

Waterlux is a combination of tung oil and resin and creates a really strong, waterproof coating that’s also beautiful. Tung oil penetrates the wood while the resins remain elastic, and this compound resists wear well.

Mid Century Modern Walnut End Tables

Then I installed the drawers. I used these bottom mounted drawer slides. They were a bit complicated to install, but I did.

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With the drawers installed, I was able to install the drawer fronts. I used the card trick to create the proper spacing around the drawer front, then temporarily attached the drawer front with double-sided tape. This held the drawer front in place long enough to be permanently attached with 1¼-inch screws.

Then I installed the handles in front of the drawer. I used these brushed brass pulls which I think would look great with this mid-century modern style piece. I used this drawer knob jig to line everything up and had to drive screws through to get to the drawer and drawer front.

The last step was to attach the legs, which was a super simple process. I simply made the posts, pre-drilled the holes and then screwed them. These Rockler I-Semble stands are pre-painted and have mounting screws.

This was a really interesting build because it used a technique I had never tried before: cutting. This process allows you to create a unique piece that

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