Sherwin Williams Proclassic Acrylic Latex – Everyone knows Sherwin as the leader in home paint. But the plethora of SV color options often skew buyers’ decisions, leading them to ignore superior paints.
If you’re looking for a premium interior finish or cabinet paint from SV, you may not have heard of ProClassic Interior Paint. Often the color choice is wrong, even for those who know the ProClassic well. In our opinion, Proclassic is often underestimated and far from being recommended.
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Trust us when we say the ProClassic deserves attention and should be the top contender for a premium interior color.
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You won’t regret buying an SV ProClassic for interior trim, but buyers should first understand what sets the Proclassic apart and create fair expectations. This product has never received fair use or fair use information and here we explain why and what makes it stand out and give it the fame it deserves!
ProClassic is not a new offering from SV. It’s been a long time. But most salespeople on the shelves misunderstand the ProClassic. Some describe it as being best used for houses, columns, or decorative pieces. Others present ProClassic as a special cabinet finish.
ProClassic is a premium self-levelling decorative paint that is great for trimming and decorating cabinets in any home. For too long, ProClassic has been misadvertised and overshadowed by more established offerings.
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On the other hand, the application shades give ProClassic a distinct characteristic from other Sherwin-Williams paints. Let’s explain this further in other categories below.
Painters can apply ProClassic by spraying or brushing, but they may need a little more experience with ProClassic to avoid streaks and breakage.
Since ProClassic is self-levelling, its color properties are slightly different from other satin, semi-gloss and gloss decorative paints.
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First, the color is thinner. Since the body is smaller and the viscosity is lower, it is necessary not to apply heavy coats.
Another feature is the longer open time. Keeping it wet or “open” for longer helps even out the color and rid the dried surface of unwanted smudges and unsightly smears.
Thinner paint that stays open longer is more prone to flaking but provides a more even finish. We recommend spraying with ProClassic for best results, but an experienced painter will do well with a ProClassic brush. Just go back and check for possible movement in corners or areas prone to paint buildup.
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Although Proclassic is a slower drying interior paint, it becomes hard when dry. Because Proclassic is an enamel, it outperforms other interior decorative paints in terms of visible and valuable durability.
While the finish isn’t its best quality, it does it well enough that two coats will suffice for most indoor applications. Only when applying highly selective colors when additional coats are required.
The highly reflective colors offered by SV contain little or no titanium dioxide. As such, you can expect many layers for colors that require this base.
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ProClassic is the color characteristic of the lining. That’s what makes it so great! There are significantly fewer vinyl polymers and fillers than other colors offered, such as cashmere.
Have you ever had a can of paint or a book stuck on a shelf in your pantry? That sticky feel doesn’t exist with the ProClassic. ProClassic removes substances that adhere to surfaces, including dust, and is more resistant to mold and mildew, although it is not marketed as an antimicrobial agent.
ProClassic acrylic paints are also more resistant to aging and yellowing over time. So you don’t have to worry about areas that don’t hold much light, like cabinet back doors that turn yellow over time.
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The Proclassic range offers several different options. Options range from oils, acrylics, and our favorite water-based alkyd finish.
If you have ever painted with oil paints, ProClassic Oil is no different from other paints on offer. It stretches and is difficult to apply with a brush. For best application and appearance, we recommend a fine finish oil spray.
Both water-based options comb through smoothly and spray with minimal drag. In addition to being a low viscosity enamel paint as described above, we achieve excellent results when applied by spray or brush. Just keep the first layer a little light.
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Sherwin-Williams paints are not always easy to remove from tools. You must be an experienced artist to notice the subtle increase in effort.
The fact that paint is difficult to remove from a tool is not necessarily a bad thing. SV is known to provide best in class paint adhesion. As such, our opinion is that the extra cleaning is worth the extra traction where needed.
Water-based versions clean with soap and water, while oil-based versions require white spirit or thinner.
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Paint is usually too expensive. Interior paint ProClassic is not cheap. In many ways, the artists claim it’s too expensive. Our position is to either overpay for bad results or overpay for great results.
Through our experience, we have enjoyed ProClassic in all its reformulations. By now, you probably know that we recommend and support the increased performance that the ProClassic offers, despite the price.
Today, you can expect to pay anywhere from $48 to $60 per gallon, depending on supplier prices and promotional and seasonal homeowner discounts. But, like everything else, these prices will inevitably rise.
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If an app or extra cost puts you off, remember that you can always buy a gallon and give it a try.
Remember that painting is time consuming and requires as little paint as possible, but that extra durability is worth any minor compromises in our opinion. First of all, thank you from the bottom of my heart for your responses to my last post about Mr. I think I cried for two days in a row reading your comments and emails. I feel that you knew her and it has been a great joy for me to have been able to share her with you over the past two years. Well, thank you.
Secondly, many of you have asked about the basement. Here is the pure truth. There was a period of about three months when the whole project turned into a disaster and I really thought that I would have to put police tape around it and pretend it didn’t exist. And the last thing I wanted to do was blog about it, so I didn’t.
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However, I’m happy to report that the renovations are finally coming to an end and the story finally has a very happy ending.
We’re still finalizing everything (maybe another week or two, depending on how fast we draw), but I plan to share with you soon. Just 3 weeks ago, I planned to never mention the basement again, so this looks really cool.
So, back to business. About 70% of the questions I get from you are about painting furniture and I have noticed that I often get the same questions. So today I decided to answer your top 5. I hope this post makes the furniture painting process really easy for you.
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When it comes to good results, sanding is key. I get the best results when I sand the entire piece with fine sandpaper. I don’t worry about sanding down to bare wood, as a slight scratch on the surface usually does the trick.
I use my Dewalt Orbit Sander (affiliate link) which has a dust bag attached to it. But the first year of painting furniture, I just did it by hand with sandpaper. It works great either way, but once you learn the magic of an orbital sander, you’ll never get back to your hand.
As for undressing, I rarely do it. It’s messy, time consuming, and usually not required to achieve the desired results. However, if you have a piece already painted and the paint is in such poor condition (peeled, etc.), removing that piece will give you a fresh, unfinished wood surface to work with.
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If you are going to take it off, I recommend Citristrip. It’s much safer to use than other plucking solutions and you won’t feel like your brows are falling out after you open the bottle.
Yes. Sanding and priming will give the best results, but if you don’t want to sand, make sure you at least prime. The primer provides adhesion of the paint to the surface and prevents the formation of bubbles or peeling of the paint. It will also keep any odors or stains (even wood stains) coming from your perfect paint job.
When I paint furniture, I only use two tools. I apply the paint with a Worcester brush at an angle (I have yet to find another brush that could match this thing) and then while the paint is still wet I wrap my mini foam roller in the paint and roll it over the area I only what dyed. Wooster applies paint to all the little areas that the roller can’t reach.
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