Benjamin Moore Impervo High Gloss – Update: I shared my thoughts on painting furniture with Benjamin Moore Advans. Please read this article here as a continuation of this article. ****
Hello friends! A few months ago I decided to try a new polish, Benjamin Moore Advance. I have been using general finishes and topcoats for a long time, but since I started spraying furniture with an HVLP gun in early 2015, it has proven to be very difficult to get a solid finish when spraying the topcoat. My conclusion is that the air coming out of the gun causes the topcoat that was just sprayed in the previous shot to start drying. In general, there will not be enough “wet buckets” for the top coat to blend it into a smooth, smooth finish, resulting in streaks on long areas (such as the deck and some sides of the the part). I’ve tried applying thick and thin coats of topcoat to try and combat this problem, but I haven’t found anything to stop it from happening. Finally I will apply the finish with steel wool and then apply a clear coat of poly/finish with a fine paint brush or foam brush. * On the other hand, this problem is more obvious when using high-quality coatings such as glossy or satin finishes. *
Benjamin Moore Impervo High Gloss
That made me see something else. I’ve been looking for a variety of colors that don’t require a top coat (and don’t stay tacky). Back to Benjamin Moore. BM Advance is a water-based alkyd paint that looks and feels like traditional oil-based paint in a water-based formula that cleans up easily with just soap and water. I’ve read about people rolling, brushing, and applying this paint and getting great results with small designs (brushes, markers, etc.) I’ve used this paint 3 times (3rd paint at this time) and only shiny topcoats were used. I’m also hoping to try satin or semi-gloss, I just need to prep a few pieces and I’m ready to paint. Here you can see a modern sideboard with geometric drawers that I painted in Advance.
Satin Impervo Interior Alkyd Satin (bm)
Here are my thoughts on this color, what I like about it, and what I don’t like. I say, no color is perfect. Different colors are different and behave differently. It all depends on the look you’re going for and what you need the paint to do for you (ie durable in high traffic areas or just covering up old finishes).
I want to start by talking about the price. I find that the price of this color is the same as the other colors I use (like general stickers). BM Advance water-based alkyd paint costs $25 a liter plus tax and $50 a gallon plus tax. Gallons are obviously more efficient and it makes sense to buy a common color that I will use a lot (eg white) in large quantities. For colors I tried for the first time or those that are lighter and don’t use much, I only buy lts.
One thing to note about this polish is the drying time and reapplication time. People have been afraid for a long time. If you need a project done quickly, this might not be the color for the project. It takes about 4 to 6 hours for the paint to dry and 16 hours before painting. Temperature and humidity can play a role in these times and can increase drying and repainting times. To be safe, I wait at least 24 hours between coats, sometimes 2-3 days if I can. I also use a plate warmer (you don’t want to use an air heater as it will blow the remaining air out of the paint) and repeat about 10 minutes after the spray is done. My sprinkler house maintains a good temperature and will move it to another area of the toilet every 30 minutes or so. Just be careful not to raise the temperature too high or place it too close to the piece.
The important thing about Advance’s long opening time is that it means the paint has a longer dwell time, which can make the finish with a brush, roller, or spray marker. I still have problems with the orange skin texture after wiping this color from time to time. The downside of long drying times is more time for dust, hair and other dirt to settle. A clean place where you won’t be disturbed for hours is ideal. I can’t have my environment completely under control, but I do my best to clean my apartment, put a damp cloth or cloth to catch the mist and other airborne particles, and when I’m done spraying, I go outside. on my power house with as little disruption as possible with plastic chips and try not to re-enter until the paint is dry.
Vintage Benjamin Moore & Co Alkyd Enamel Underbody Quart Can White 217
Another thing I struggled with was applying the paint too thickly on details and parts of the design and then the application dripped. This is partly due to the longer drying time, but this color is now known for its higher resistance to cracking and fading. Now that this happened (and I was out of juice for spraying paint before using Advance), I changed how to paint the doors and hood using the template. Just be aware that if you are painting with inserts and models, it can be difficult. If this paint chips off on you, you need to let the area dry for a few days (if that happens) and then use sandpaper (400 or more) and lightly sand the area to remove it. When you do this, it goes over 000 industrial steel wool. In my experience, it’s almost impossible to properly repair an area with water leaks without removing all the paint from that area. I just drooled when I photographed this piece.
Need to darken the surface of the layer. It is painted in a glossy finish, which is nice. If you don’t darken the surface with a higher grade sandpaper or synthetic steel wool between coats, you won’t get a good bond and the next coat may reject the paint. Even when working with other colors, it’s a good idea to sand the finish between coats to ensure it lasts and is smooth. I usually don’t do this between coats of other colors, but it has to with Advance.
I do find that even high grade sandpaper like 400 grit will rub off the paint (which will show if you use bright colors), so I just stick with #000 synthetic steel wool. The photo above shows the edge of the piece where I used synthetic steel wool on the rough end and smoothed it out. In my experience, removing all the chips from a piece of wood can be difficult and painful. Additionally, if you miss a few small particles, you can rust and remove the newly painted debris. None of the hardware stores within 30 miles of me carry synthetic steel wool (I found it) so I order it from Amazon. Norton #2 000 seed is my favorite, but I also buy and use Task ‘Fine’ seed. Don’t buy the 3M brand. Tried it but it didn’t work, don’t waste your money. The best thing about darkening the surface of a synthetic wool jacket is that it doesn’t remove the color, if any. After using sandpaper and sand, I got messy and rubbed the paint off the edges of the doors and drawers to get back to basics. Synthetic steel wool just won’t do! I always use colored sandpaper for drips. All small particles are removed and polished with synthetic steel wool.
One thing I like is that the Advance comes in many touch/finishes. As I said at the beginning of this article, I have only used the high finish so far, but there are also satin and semi-gloss colors. For oil-free paint, Advance High Gloss has excellent gloss. When I spray it, it’s super shiny…and I don’t have to use an oil based product which means horrible cleanup and lots of fumes. It is an excellent substitute for oily products. Although this paint is an oil-based paint, it is low in VOC
Kitchen & Bath
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