Ppg Water Based Alkyd Urethane

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Ppg Water Based Alkyd Urethane – Update: I have since shared my current thoughts on furniture painting with Benjamin Moore Advances. Please read this post here as a continuation of this post. ****

Hello friends! A few months ago I decided to try a new color, Benjamin Moore’s Advance. I’ve been using general paint and topcoat for a while now, but since I started spraying furniture with an HVLP spray gun in early 2015, it’s been very difficult to get it off when spraying over topcoat. is I have come to the conclusion that the air coming out of the gun is causing the top coat that was just sprayed in the previous shot to dry immediately. Instead the “wet edge” is not enough to blend the top coat smoothly and completely resulting in streaks on long surfaces (like the top and some side pieces). I’ve tried spraying thick and thin coats of topcoat to combat this problem, but I haven’t found anything that works to stop it. Finally, I smoothed the finish with steel wool and then applied a final coat of poly/topcoat with a quality paint brush or foam tweezers. *As a side note, this problem is more noticeable when using high gloss finishes such as gloss or satin coats.*

Ppg Water Based Alkyd Urethane

Ppg Water Based Alkyd Urethane

It took me in a different direction. I was looking for a paint that comes in a variety of glosses that doesn’t need a top coat (and won’t be sticky). Enter the Benjamin Moore Advance. BM Advance is a water-based alkyd paint that performs and looks like traditional oil-based paint in a water-based formula that cleans up easily with soap and water. I’ve read about people rolling, brushing and spraying this paint and getting the best results with little texture (brush, roll marks, etc.) I’ve used this paint 3 times (currently I I’m painting the third piece. ) and they just used a glossy finish. I’m also hoping to try a satin or semi-gloss finish, just need more parts prepped and ready to paint. You can see the modern sideboard with geometric drawers that I painted in advance here.

Draw Tite Penetrating Sealer & Primer

Here are my thoughts on this picture, the good things about it, and the things I don’t care for. I say, there is no such thing as a perfect picture. Different colors do different things and do different things. It all depends on what you want and what you need the paint to do (like being permanent on high traffic surfaces, or just covering an old finish).

Ppg Water Based Alkyd Urethane

I want to start by talking a little bit about the price. I think this color is the same price as other colors I use (like Finitura Generale). BM Advance Waterborne Alkyd Paint will run you about $25 a quart plus tax and $50 a gallon plus tax. A gallon is obviously more cost effective and it makes sense for me to buy common colors that I use often (like white) in bulk. For colors I tried for the first time or ones that are bright and have been used less, I only buy a quarter.

One thing to note about this paint is the drying time and recovery time. It’s long, and people gather. If you need a project done quickly this may not be the color to use on that project. The paint takes 4 to 6 hours to dry and 16 hours to recover. Temperature and humidity can play a role in these times and can increase drying and recovery times. To be safe, I wait at least 24 hours between coats and can sometimes wait 2-3 days. I also used my plate heater (you don’t want to use a heater that blows air because it will cause airborne debris to end up in your paint finish) and after I finished spraying about 10 Turn it on in minutes. My spray booth holds the heat well and I move it to a different area of ​​the spray booth every 30 minutes or so. Make sure you don’t turn the temperature too high and don’t put it too close to the stove.

Ppg Water Based Alkyd Urethane

Renner Solid Oil Effect Wood Floor Varnish, Parquet Varnish

The best thing about the extended open time for Advance is that it means the paint has more time to level and can be finished with less brush, roller or spray. I also had problems with the texture of the orange peel when sometimes spraying this paint. The extended drying time allows more time for dust, fuzz and other debris to dissipate. A clean, uncluttered space for a few hours is ideal. For me, a perfectly controlled environment for spraying is not possible, but I do my best to keep my spray booth empty, set up a damp cloth to catch overspray and other airborne particles, and that When will it end? Spray I leave the cabin without disturbing the plastic sheet too much and try not to go in again until the paint dries.

Another thing I struggle with is painting the paint a little too thick on parts with detail and modeling, and then letting it dry. This is partly due to the longer drying time, but this paint is now known for its high green and stain resistance. Now that that’s done (and I never had any fallout when spraying any paint before using Advance) I changed how I painted the doors and drawers with the molding. Be aware that if you paint a piece with inserts and moldings, they can be difficult. If you have a spill with this color, you need to cure the area for a few days (if it cures) and then use high grit sandpaper (400 or higher) and sand lightly to smooth the area. do it Once you’ve done that, go over it with 000 synthetic steel wool. In my experience, it is almost impossible to completely repair an area where a dip has occurred without removing all the paint in that area. I never had a single drop while painting this piece.

Ppg Water Based Alkyd Urethane

You have to break the surface between the coats. I painted it with a high gloss finish, and it is shiny. If you don’t smooth the surface by using high-grit sandpaper or synthetic steel wool between coats, you won’t get a good finish and the next layer of paint to be applied can rub off. Even when working with other colors, it’s a good idea to smooth the finish between coats to ensure a durable and smooth finish. I usually don’t do it with other colors between each coat, but it’s important to advance.

Ppg Sigmadur One

I actually find that high grit sandpaper like 400 grit will scratch the color (which will show if you use a high gloss) so I only use #000 synthetic steel wool. The photo above shows the side of a piece that used synthetic steel wool on a matte, smooth finish. In my experience real wood shed is steel and removing all the particles from the piece can be difficult and painful. In addition, if you miss any particles, there is a chance that they can rust and pass through the newly painted finish. No hardware store within 30 miles of me carries synthetic steel wool (that I found) so I ordered it from Amazon. My favorite is the Norton #000 2 pack, but I also buy and use the ‘Fine’ Grit Task. Do not buy 3M brand. I tried and it did nothing, don’t waste your money. The best thing about smoothing the surface between coats with synthetic steel wool is that you don’t remove much, if any, of the paint. When I used sandpaper and a sanding block, it made a mess and removed the paint on the edges of the doors and drawers, so I went back to primer. Synthetic steel wool won’t do it! I always use colored sandpaper unless I have a dip. All fine particles are removed and smoothed with synthetic steel wool.

Ppg Water Based Alkyd Urethane

One thing I like is that the Advance comes in several glosses/finishes. As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, I’ve only done gloss finishes so far, but the color is also available in satin and semi-gloss. For an oil-free paint, Advance Hi-Gloss has a very high gloss. When I spray it on it gets super shiny… and I don’t have to use an oil-based product, which means a horrible cleanup and a lot of fumes. It is an excellent alternative to oil-based products. Although this paint works like oil paint, it is low VOC

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